The Project

Ingredient transparency
and dupe culture

This project examines whether higher prices correspond to more complex formulations or whether consumers are primarily paying for brand prestige. Every product is scored using the same two-part methodology: an Ingredient Quality Score that evaluates the formula itself, and a Price Fairness Multiplier that asks whether the cost is justified.
Using a custom-built dataset and generative visualization techniques, skincare formulations will be translated into organic, petri-dish-inspired digital ecosystems where ingredients function as particles within compositional systems. The final outcome aims to merge data analysis with immersive editorial-style visualization.

Ingredient Quality Score — IQS

Formulation quality,
independent of price

The IQS captures what is actually in the formula. It rewards beneficial ingredients, penalises harmful ones, and normalises for list length so longer formulas are not automatically rewarded.

Base Formula

IQS  =  (superstars × 3) + (goodies × 1) − (ickyweighted × 2) ingredient count  × 100
Dividing by ingredient count normalises for formulation size — a product is not rewarded simply for having a long list.

Icky Ingredient Position Weighting

Where an ingredient appears
matters as much as what it is

Cosmetic ingredient lists are legally required to be ordered by descending concentration. An icky ingredient near the top of the list is far more concerning than one buried near the bottom.

Base Position Weight

weight  =  1 − position index ingredient count

Position 5 of 40 → 0.875 (heavy). Position 38 of 40 → 0.05 (near negligible).

The 1% Rule & Floor of 0.25

Regulations allow ingredients at ≤1% to be listed in any order. Without a floor, icky ingredients listed late would receive near-zero penalties — even though their presence at any concentration still carries risk for sensitive skin.

weight  =  max( 1 − position index ingredient count  , 0.25 )

0.25 ensures any icky ingredient carries at least a quarter of the concern of a prominently listed one — high enough to matter, low enough to still reward products that bury them late.

Final Weighted Sum

ickyweighted  =  Σ   max( 1 − position index ingredient count  , 0.25 )

Price Fairness Multiplier — PFM

Rewarding value,
penalising prestige pricing

The PFM adjusts the final score based on price per ml. A great formula at a budget price is rewarded. A poor formula at a luxury price is penalised. Accessible-tier products are unaffected.

PFM Formula

IQSnorm  =  IQS − IQSmin IQSmax − IQSmin  × 2 − 1

PFM  =  1 + ( IQSnorm × price sensitivity )

IQSnorm rescales each product to a −1 to +1 range across the full dataset, so every product is judged relative to the others.

Ingredient Weights

RatingWeightRationale
Superstar × 3 Rare, high-impact actives — strongest positive signal in a formula.
Goodie × 1 Beneficial ingredients — positive but baseline contribution.
Icky × 2 Harmful or questionable — penalised harder than goodies are rewarded, scaled by position.
Neutral × 0 Functional base ingredients — no meaningful positive or negative signal.

Position Weighting — Example (40 ingredients)

PositionRaw weightWith floorNotes
30.9250.925Heavy penalty
100.7500.750Significant
200.5000.500Moderate
300.2500.250Floor reached
350.1250.250Floor kicks in
380.0500.250Floor kicks in
390.0250.250Floor kicks in

Price Tiers

Price / mlTierSensitivityLabel
≤ $0.20Budget+0.15Very Affordable
$0.21 – $0.60Mid-range0.00Accessible
$0.61 – $1.50Premium−0.20Elevated
> $1.50Luxury−0.35High-End

PFM Scenarios

IQSPriceResult
HighBudgetPFM > 1 — rewarded
LowLuxuryPFM < 1 — penalised
HighLuxuryPFM ≈ 0.72 — neutral
LowBudgetPFM ≈ 0.88 — forgiving

Final Score

Putting it all together

Final Score  =  IQS  ×  PFM

Final scores are normalised to 0 – 100 across the dataset. Grade bands reflect relative performance, not an absolute standard.

Grade Bands

S 80 – 100 Pristine, perfectly symmetrical, luminous
A 60 – 79 Clean, smooth, organic edges, soft glow
B 40 – 59 Soft irregularities, slightly uneven, muted glow
C 20 – 39 Asymmetric, dull colouring, visible distortion
D 0 – 19 Distorted, spiky, toxic/chaotic — poison-like

Ingredient Categories

Superstar

Rare, high-impact actives. The strongest positive signal in a formula. Weighted ×3.

Goodie

Beneficial ingredients with a positive but baseline contribution. Weighted ×1.

Icky

Harmful or questionable. Penalised harder than goodies are rewarded, scaled by position. Weighted ×2.

Neutral

Functional base ingredients with no meaningful positive or negative signal. No score impact.

Data Source

Ingredient lists and ratings sourced from Inci-Decoder. Classifications mapped to a custom superstar / goodie / icky / neutral system. All scoring calculated manually.